From Colonial Backwaters to a Tourist Haven: The Story of Kumarakom, Kerala

Nestled along the serene shores of Vembanad Lake in Kerala’s Kottayam district, Kumarakom is a picturesque village renowned for its backwaters, lush greenery, and rich cultural heritage. This exploration delves into Kumarakom’s historical roots, influential figures, the evolution of its tourism industry, and its current economic landscape, showcasing why it remains a must-visit destination.

History of Kumarakom

Kumarakom’s historical narrative is intertwined with Kerala’s storied past. Once part of the Vadakkumkur kingdom, the region was annexed by Marthanda Varma, the King of Travancore, in 1750, integrating it into the Travancore kingdom. This period marked Kumarakom as a vital trading hub where merchants exchanged goods and stories along the backwaters. The establishment of the first Christian church in 1769 signaled early cultural shifts in the region.

A transformative chapter in Kumarakom’s history began in 1847 with the arrival of Alfred George Baker, a British missionary and farmer. Baker reclaimed 500 acres of Vembanad Lake, converting it into fertile garden land and paddy fields. In 1881, he constructed a Victorian bungalow known as the “History House,” which served as the Baker family’s residence for four generations until 1962. This house, now part of the Taj Garden Retreat hotel complex, gained literary fame as the setting for Arundhati Roy’s The God of Small Things. The Baker family’s contributions extended beyond agriculture; they established the Baker Memorial School in Kottayam around 1825, leaving a lasting educational legacy.

Following India’s independence and Kerala’s land reforms in the 1960s, the Baker family sold their property. The Victorian bungalow and 100 acres were acquired by the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC) in 1982. These reforms and the subsequent development of the estate into a resort laid the groundwork for Kumarakom’s emergence as a tourist destination.

Alfred George Baker and Family

Alfred George Baker, born in Essex, England, in 1793, played a pivotal role in Kumarakom’s development. Arriving in Kerala in 1847, he reclaimed land and integrated into the local community, with his family adopting Malayalam and traditional attire like the mundu. Their contributions to agriculture, education, and community development have left a lasting impact, underscored by the establishment of the Baker Memorial School in 1825.

The Baker family’s legacy goes beyond land reclamation. Alfred Baker’s wife, Fanny, ran a village school, and after her death, he established a memorial primary school in 1886. He planted coastal mangroves to check soil erosion and even set aside ten acres of lakeshore for workers and visiting migratory birds. Altogether, the Bakers’ innovations inspired many local farmers. Notably, Thomas Murikkan, a native Kuttanad landowner, followed Baker’s example by reclaiming over 1,800 acres for paddy cultivation in the 1940s.

By the mid-20th century, however, Kerala’s land reforms forced Baker’s descendants to sell most of their estate. In 1982, the last Victorian-era bungalow and 100 acres of the Kumarakom estate were sold to the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC). This bungalow, built in 1881 by Alfred Baker, had sheltered four generations of the family. Today, it is the heart of the Taj Kumarakom Resort & Spa: the hotel calls the original two-story house a “slice of history,” noting that the “original bungalow…was built in 1881 by an English missionary.” Thus, the first luxury resort in Kumarakom literally rose from the colonial homestead on the reclaimed land.

From Estates to Resorts*

As the Baker family’s direct tenure ended, Kumarakom attracted new generations of hospitality investors. The Government of Kerala aggressively began marketing Kumarakom around 2000 as a prime backwater tourism destination. KTDC developed two lakeside resorts here: the 79-room Gateway Hotel Kumarakom by the lake and Water Scapes Kumarakom, a 40-cottage resort built inside what remains of the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. In 2023, these KTDC properties even hosted India’s G20 Sherpa meetings, shining an international spotlight on Kumarakom.

Meanwhile, private hotel groups moved in. Today, corporate resorts line the backwaters: KTDC counts 21 resorts in Kumarakom (as of 2023), and luxury chains are well represented. The Taj Kumarakom (formerly Taj Garden Retreat) remains the flagship, with over two dozen villas set in what the hotel describes as a “colonial design aesthetic.” Other five-star properties include the Niraamaya Retreat and luxury “boat-homes” (converted houseboats). These developments have turned Kumarakom’s image on its head: once a quiet plantation village, it is now a poster child of Kerala’s backwater idyll.

Alongside big brands, Kerala’s tourism department and local bodies have promoted sustainable “village life” experiences. Kerala Tourism’s Responsible Tourism Mission chose Kumarakom as a pilot site, encouraging initiatives like coir-making demonstrations, toddy tapping, and organic farm tours to benefit villagers. Such programs aim to spread tourism dollars more evenly—a response to concerns that “industry giants” had gobbled up the prime riverfront land.

Homespun Hospitality

Beyond corporate chains, many local families saw opportunity in the tourism boom by offering homestays and eco-lodges. A notable example is the Illikkalam family of Kumarakom. Salim M. Das, a native of the village, and his wife Susan Das inherited a stretch of lakeshore land and opened Illikkalam Lakeside Cottages in 1995. Starting with a single cottage, they gradually built a lakeside lodge on inherited property, becoming among the first native-run hotel in Kumarakom. The Illikkalam website proudly notes it is “owned and managed…in the inherited land, by the Kumarakom native.” Over the years, they embraced eco-tourism principles: installing solar panels and rainwater harvesting, managing waste via biogas and composting, and sharing an organic farm with guests. Their efforts earned national responsible-tourism awards.

Other local entrepreneurs likewise tapped into Kerala’s homestay boom. Many backwater families opened simple cottages or houseboat rentals. The state government’s push – including 2022 policies to ease licensing and promote homestays nationwide – helped even small operators. Community groups such as Kudumbashree women’s self-help societies also run beachfront stalls and co-op cafés, allowing houseboat crews or taxi drivers to bring business to village markets. Together, these grassroots ventures give travelers a slice of village life while providing locals with alternative livelihoods.

Prominent personalities from Kumarakom have contributed too. The Bay Island Driftwood Museum, created by local doctor-artisan Dr. Itty Achuthan, is one quirky example (it repurposes driftwood in sculpture and has become a must-visit). Longtime residents like K. Arunkumar, secretary of the Chamber of Vembanad Hotels, have lobbied for better amenities and events to boost Kumarakom’s profile. Their work, along with homegrown brands like Marshanger Heritage Homestay and Coconut Creek Farm, helped diversify the sector beyond just houseboats.

Current Economy and Tourism

Economic Landscape

Tourism is the cornerstone of Kumarakom’s economy, driving employment and local commerce. The village’s strategic location along Vembanad Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Kerala, supports a vibrant tourism industry, including houseboat operators, resort staff, local artisans, and fishermen. While traditional livelihoods like fishing and agriculture contribute to the economy, sustainable tourism initiatives are empowering local residents through community-based projects. However, the reliance on tourism poses challenges, including managing over-tourism and maintaining ecological balance.

Tourism Highlights

Kumarakom’s tourism offerings are diverse and immersive, centered around its natural and cultural attractions:

• Vembanad Lake and Backwaters: A primary draw, the backwaters offer houseboat cruises on traditional Kettuvallams for a luxurious exploration of serene waterways lined with coconut groves and paddy fields.
• Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary: Spanning 14 acres, this sanctuary is a paradise for birdwatchers, hosting over 180 species. Guided tours provide optimal viewing opportunities.
• Luxury Resorts and Ayurvedic Retreats: Resorts like Illikkalam Lakeside Cottages offer world-class accommodations that blend traditional Kerala architecture with modern amenities. Ayurvedic treatments and wellness programs attract visitors seeking rejuvenation.
• Cultural Experiences: Kumarakom showcases local festivals, traditional crafts, and cuisine. Visitors can explore markets, participate in cooking classes, or witness cultural performances.
• Eco-Friendly Initiatives: The village embraces sustainable tourism, with resorts implementing responsible waste management and community-based projects ensuring locals benefit from the industry.

Challenges and Opportunities

The growth of tourism presents both opportunities and challenges. While it drives economic prosperity, over-tourism risks straining natural resources, particularly the fragile backwater ecosystem. Future growth will depend on continued investment in sustainable infrastructure and community engagement.

 

Kumarakom’s journey from a historical trading hub to a global tourism gem reflects its natural beauty, cultural richness, and forward-thinking tourism strategies. The legacy of figures like Alfred George Baker and Arundhati Roy, combined with the Kerala model of sustainable tourism, has crafted a destination appealing to nature lovers, cultural enthusiasts, and wellness seekers alike. As Kumarakom continues to thrive, its commitment to preserving its heritage and environment ensures it remains a serene paradise for generations to come. For an unforgettable experience, consider staying at Illikkalam Lakeside Cottages, where the charm of Kumarakom’s backwaters meets modern comfort.

 

Key Attractions in Kumarakom

Attraction	Description	Why Visit?
Vembanad Lake Backwaters	A network of canals, lakes, and lagoons offering houseboat cruises and water activities.	Experience serene cruises, fishing, and stunning views of Kerala’s landscapes.
Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary	A 14-acre sanctuary with over 180 bird species, including migratory birds.	Ideal for birdwatching and nature photography, especially during early mornings.
History House (Taj Resort)	A Victorian bungalow built by Alfred George Baker, now a luxury resort.	Explore historical architecture and literary connections from The God of Small Things.
Local Markets and Crafts	Vibrant markets offering handmade crafts, spices, and local produce.	Immerse in Kerala’s culture and shop for unique souvenirs.
Ayurvedic Retreats	Resorts like ILLIKKALAM Lakeside Cottages offer wellness programs and treatments.	Rejuvenate with traditional Ayurvedic therapies and yoga sessions.